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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.